I don’t feel ready this time. I didn’t last time but it was easier somehow. Winter in Wales is a completely different prospect to winter in Transylvania. There’s a cold snap forecast for the next few days, dropping to minus 13 at night before rising again to a more average minus 5 for the weekend.
I had more help in Wales of course, the share button being widely used and the messages flowing in, come and stay, come and stay. Here I’m camping a lot more, trying Couchsurfing again, using hotels as a last resort, trying not to drain my small weekly budget.
I set off late in the year, September 20th I started walking from Kiev and although I rationalised it by saying that I’d be walking through the winter whatever happened, I’ve realised that I’m not quite in gear yet. I thought that I couldn’t avoid the cold so it didn’t matter when I set off but the seasons are turning cold and I’m only just warming up.
But, having said all that, I am experienced and I am prepared, even if I’m bubbling with nerves under the surface.
I have, for sleeping, 4 layers of sleeping cocoon which should see me safely insulated in minus 20.
A silk sleeping bag liner
A down sleeping bag liner, thin layer of insulation
A full winter down bag, good to minus 9 on it’s own
Then a bivvy bag, to keep the condensation off.
Then there’s my mohair bedsocks, the merino wool baselayer I won’t remove unless it’s wet, the variety of two buff bands, a hat and a hood I can use to cover my neck, face and head. Plus a hand knitted nose warmer (I can’t bear a cold nose).
Underneath me there is an inflatable Neoair Thermarest mattress, plus a layer of laminated aluminium foil, plus the tent base and additional footprint to keep out the damp.
For really cold nights, or emergency situations where I can’t produce or retain enough heat to keep safe I’ve got a handwarmer that I can put against my skin to warm me up.
The hardest parts will be the mornings, the transition from bed to packed and ready, the shock of leaving my cocoon, feeling soft and vulnerable, rolling up a frosty tent with clumsy hands.
I have two pairs of gloves, one woollen, one waterproof. I have insulated trousers for during the daytime. I have a down jacket and a down waistcoat, plus a long sleeved lightweight fleece plus a waterproof jacket. I can swap these on and off, layering according to the weather and how hard I’m working.
It should be OK, it should work, it’s just that I haven’t quite tested it yet. I’m here on the cusp of winter, treading on the first few snow patches, watching the sparse flakes flutter. I’ve woken up to frosty mornings but the storms are yet to come, the snow drifts, the really tough section. Hopefully, once it starts, I’ll be too busy surviving to get scared. The fear is in the anticipation, isn’t it.
Hey Ursula, great to read of your progress.
Whatever you decide to do is for you alone to mull over. There will be no judgment from others for using good sense and self-preservation to make up ground that only you will ever consider as lost. If the winter is more harsh than anticipated or time has lapsed, forcing later dates upon you as you have described, then change your plans with considered abandon and enjoy the trek of a lifetime as you have planned to do but with whatever amendments you like or need to make. The battle in your mind will make reading the book just as good as a battle with ridiculous weather! Good luck and enjoy the road ahead x
Cheers Phil. I’ll know if it’s too much, but I’ve got to at least try it first. Can’t let my imagination put me off…plus I’ve just spent serious money on a new sleeping bag, need to try it out!
Wow Ursula.I’ve just been reading this to Nad, we think you’re amazing!
Lots of love and warm hugs xxxxx
Ah wow, great to hear from you. Thank you. You’re pretty amazing too. Xx
Stay focused stay safe and stay warm but as someone has already said if you need to change or alter plans then so be it .this is your journey and you will make the right call when you and only you know it’s time to do so . Be safe x
Wow! A digger outer of the snow might be useful….I’m sure you have one. Bon courage. Cold can be tricky sometimes. I’m trusting in your steady judgements.x
Hi, Love reading about your adventure😍 You got this‼️We are with you in spirit cheering you onward…..Many Blessingxo
Wow It helping me to feel cool, as my situation the other way round heading where its hot and bitey things 😎🤘😎
I’m a fan of your marvelous sense of adventure whatever comes your way. You sound remarkably well prepared, physically and mentally. Best wishes and good thoughts. Special thank you for your excellent photos! I know that they can’t possibly convey the full nature of the experience, but in combination with your honest words, I feel as if I can trek a bit with you. There is no wrong way to do that which has not been done. Go for it!
Well done Ursula!! Stay safe. XX
I need to see a photo of the nose warmer. Can’t begin to imagine what it is like
Ha ha, I am planning on it. Just waiting for the right comedy moment.
I’m hoping that as I keep reading I’ll see this nose warmer in action! Also, how much does all that weigh? All necessary stuff, I’m a very cold human and that’s probably about the list I’d want too if things dropped below just zero, but my poor knees winced as I read it.