I left Kalinovik with a rucksack bulging with food. Unfortunately though, it wasn’t the right kind of food, nor was it enough for the six day journey that lay ahead. I’d been spoilt in Kalinovik by a friendly couple, customers
I caught trains and buses across the UK, flitting between friends with a final stop off in Norfolk before getting the overnight ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland. Not quite in the right place for hitching, I then took
I like the way the accents slur in southern Serbia. I like the way people introduce themselves. The voices have changed since Bulgaria, they don’t clip words closed but slide them into one another, drawling like a sexy drunk cowboy.
I went to meet other walkers again, this time it was Nil and Marie down in Kosovo. My journey started with a hitchhike. I stuck my thumb out in the rain on the edge of Prokuplje, an ordinary town in
There was an intriguing lump of land that lay northwest of Niš, a strong patch of green on a white map, roads seemed to creep up the sides but none connected to each other, there was no way to climb
The idea came as I passed a green road sign, fixed at the side of an asphalt road where I followed the contour curves of a huge lake, dammed in 1974 to provide hydropower. The sign pointed to a turning
The route that day took me out of Rsovci and along a path that led above a steep gorge that twisted back and forth in horseshoe loops towards a huge lake, three miles long, that I could walk alongside for
The cafe where I sit is a tiny room by the side of a busy road that passes through the mountains from north to south towards where the capital city sits. There are the usual derelict buildings nearby, of unknown
I’ve not been blogging as much about the walking this time. It seems uninteresting to me, as if I’ve said it all before. I wake up, I cross land on foot, I sleep. I’ve described all this in many different
I got annoyed in a hotel this morning. My final breakfast in Romania and I tried to give the waiter some of the coins and small notes in my purse, in order to receive a large note as change. He