I’ve always shied away from writing kit lists, mainly because I feel strange about giving recommendations when I’m not sure that what I’m using is the best out there. I wouldn’t call myself much of a gear enthusiast (although now
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Kitastrophe
My luck ran out. Weeks of autumnal sunshine turned to rain. I’m stuck in a small apartment on the ground floor of a house in a tiny village in rural Croatia. When I look out of the window I
Life in Spain
I’ve come for a morning coffee, I’m allowed to here. The insides of bars and cafés are closed but we can sit outside. Actually I shouldn’t need to make the distinction here. They’re all bars, in that everywhere serves plenty
Cold
I’d been so worried about walking in Spain that I’d forgotten about the challenges of walking in winter. It started with wind, days of it sweeping across the open farmlands freshly ploughed and seeded and hitting me right in
The difficulty just isn’t easing
I’m lying on my air mattress in the corner of a whitewashed room that is otherwise bare apart from a sink unit with no taps and a worn wooden bench. The wind is roaring outside, hard enough that it almost
I have stopped being able to look forward
I can’t handle the future, I can’t look too far ahead, there’s too much of the same thing, too much effort, too much danger, too much difficulty, too much pain. I close the guidebook, turn away from the pages that
A lunchtime pause
I’m sitting in a restaurant to avoid the rain. I thought there would be a bar in the last village; the first on my route for three days. I planned carefully the hours that I’d spend there, plug in my
Enjoying myself in the mountains
Enjoying myself in the mountain Something settled inside me during my enforced break in Bardi. The days spent in that bare pilgrims room, just three single beds and a small kitchen unit in the corner, large single glazed window
Italy, the promised land
Italy, I kept saying to myself. I’m in Italy. I’d crossed the border high up on a mountain, a squat concrete pillar the indicator that I’d changed territory, here on the ridge walk that alternated between cold blowing mist
Slovenian solidarity in the vuko jebina
Whenever I feel low, I get easily intimidated. It all felt a bit much, coming out of that solitary week in rural Croatia, looking ahead at the forecast to a full ten days of rain. I’m so alone sometimes, setting